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Best Bookshops in the World

Monday, March 15th, 2010

Click here for the Guardian UK’s list of the best bookshops in the world. These were chosen mostly for their architectural magnificence, it seems, and do, of course, exhibit  British perspective. But if they aren’t enough to make a book lover slaver, I don’t know what is.

If you are ever in the Portland, Oregon area and at a loss for what to do, I highly recommend Cameron’s Books. I stumbled on the store a few years back while killing time before meeting a client in the SW district near the river. It was a cold day (my usual experience in Portland) and the shop was pleasantly warm, stacked floor to ceiling with used books and magazines, all in order.

Just a week ago when I visited the city (another cold day, and visiting the same client), I dropped in. I looked for a copy of Ethan Frome by Edith Wharton. Not only did  I find a handsome hardcover copy with a painting of a bleak New England scene on the cover but the book was only three dollars. Each time I have visited Cameron’s I have come out with something I had wanted or something serendipitous.

Cameron’s is on the same block as a Western outfitter and the storefront of a strip club. I don’t remember the strip club being there before. Perhaps it has crept in in the downturn. At any rate, I’d be willing to bet that Cameron’s, which has been in business since 1938, will outlast it. The proprietor looks the same way he always does. Perhaps he looked that way in 1938 as well.

If you are ever in the area, do pay them a visit. Kids, this is the way used bookstores used to be.

TRH

Denver to Hastings, NE to Red Cloud, NE

Sunday, October 18th, 2009

East of Denver, more of the same. Interstate lanes, buttes and rises and hillocks smoothed by mighty earthmoving equipment to create the Eisenhower Interstate System, alongside which not a living soul is to be seen…Our TARP dollars at work in mile after mile of road repairs: white line painting, paving, inexplicable spraying of liquid on the shoulders, miles upon miles of orange striped road work barrels taller than my son with signs warning of increased fines in road work areas (trying to give some of that TARP money back?)

Back in Denver at the Tattered Cover the booksellers gathered ’round the book, admiring it. The Tattered Cover, another died and gone to bookstore heaven experience, a different heavenk, this one in a former opera house or theather…immense…with comfortable chairs, the barnes and noble experience of pleasanty seating but un-canned, the furrniture not something you would find at the Holiday Inn Express…W.P. Kinsella, Annie Leibovitz looking dramatic, Al Gore looking not, Nick Bantock, Opalonga Pugh, Bobbie Ann Mason looking like a Bobbie Ann (with all due respect), Amy Tan, Kazuo Ishiguro looking like his prose, George Plimpton looking like a living icon (may he rest in peace), Susan Minot with flashes of early beauty, Walter Mosley looking friendly, Larry McMurtry looking like we saw him at the Academy awards for Brokeback Mountain, Martin Amis looking British and very much like a writer–these are the black and white photographs of authors who have read at the Tattered Cover. These framed photographs line the two staircases leading to the lower floor, and these are just a few of the names cuylled from one flight of stairs. The Tattered Cover is an inspiration, a landmark for book lovers in a Denver landmark building with statuary across the street against the watery blue Denver sky that makes it look all the more a wonderment.

The Tattered Cover

The Tattered Cover

The kind of view, coming out of a bookshop, that could fill one with purpose...

The kind of view, coming out of a bookshop, that could fill one with purpose...

As Colorado segues into Nebraska the terrain changes. A few men in pickup trucks are seen on country roads, a golden retriever in the back of one, fur flowing in the strong breeze. Finally, some people. And then more of the same: ribbons of highway cut through the midst of everything, though with some wather here and there at the side of the road. Then Gothenburg, a town of 3,000, with the second floor of an old Pony Express stop in the midst of the town square with a cheerful guide who relates how the stop was moved from a nearby farm to here and how it snowed six inches the week before. the Pony Express only existed for less than two years, running all the way from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California and the investors took a bath on it before they were replaced by the telegraph. But what an impact they have made on the collective memory.

Cabins like these were positioned every 12 miles through all kinds of terrain

Cabins like these were positioned every 12 miles through all kinds of terrain

Rika and Felix in the Gothenburg town square

Rika and Felix in the Gothenburg town square

A few miles later, a covered arch over Interstate 80 in Kearney. This would be familiar to those who read The Echo Maker by Richard Powers which takes place in Kearney. Bonnie, the erstwhile girlfriend works there in authentic period dress. We didn’t stop in Kearney but Powers’s book has made it a fit subject for literary america.

10-17-09 050The interstates this time of year belong to the tractor trailers. Long haul carriers, short haul carriers, passing each other in the manner of racers in a very long race. On the sides one sees the railroad tracks every now and then, and the immensely long coal trains that probably come from the Powder River in Wyoming (John McPhee wrote about them in a New Yorker two part article a few years back which is now only available with a subscription). That night at the Holiday Inn Express we check out the movie CARS, by Pixar, which turns out to be a celebration of the beauty of the old Route 66 and the way things wuz before the Interstate came in and sterilized the driving experience–a message that was lost on felix who was, however, transfixed by the cars. A good road movie for the child.

 Hastings, NE…city of 25000, where Kool Ade was invented. At the local museum: “Mount It! The Art of Taxidermy”, a convenience store named Smokes ‘N Jokes, a hair cutting place with a sign up that says “sometimes this business gets a little hairy.” Suggestion to comedians who cannot make it in the big leagues: move to Hastings. Hastings is just 43 miles, pretty much as the crow flies, from Red Cloud, the former home of Willa Cather.  

En Route to Red Cloud

En Route to Red Cloud

Red Cloud: it’s Sunday. The town is closed up. Dead leaves skittering through the intersection in the middle of town. No stoplight. street paved with bricks. Only place open are the Sinclair gas station, with its logo of a brontosaurus (a comment on fossil fuels?) a convenience store/gas station names “The Bootleggers” where I ask for directions, and Cutters Cafe, where I drop off a book with the proprietor. By prearrangement she is going to give the book to the woman who runs the Cather Foundation bookstore tomorrow. When I walk in to Cutters, she asks, “So you’ve brought our book?” How on earth did she know who I was?

Cutter's Cafe, a little cut off...

Cutter's Cafe, a little cut off...

Like a ghoulish tourist, I ask for directions to the cemetery. I need to set something right. In My Antonia, Antonia’s father commits suicide and, because that is a sin, is buried at the crossing of two roads, rather than in the cemetary. This was a story based on the real-life person named Annie Sadilek, whose father killed himself. In the book, I wrote that his grave was still out there in the prairie. It is not. he has been moved to the Catholic section of the cemetery where he now rests with his wife and his son, Anton. 10-18-09 058

Hopkins Bookshop

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

When I was young, my parents became friends with Bill and Roddy Cleary, owners of the first bookstore that I ever experienced. The name of the shop was Hopkins. Bill Cleary was a former Jesuit. The store was named after another Jesuit—and poet—Gerard Manley Hopkins [for a poem by Hopkins, see below]. So, really my parents fell in with fellow Catholics and poetry lovers at the same time (not to mention musicians; Mr. Cleary, who had a fine sense of humor and an encyclopedic knowledge of show tunes, had once entertained some important group for an evening when their regularly scheduled entertainment fell through. When the night was over he was offered cash or the piano and he took the piano. I always thought that was the height of musicianship and showmanship).

Hopkins Bookshop was located at the time on Church Street—the most important mercantile street in downtown Burlington, Vermont. Church Street has a perfectly symmetrical, beautifully proportioned brick Unitarian Church at the head of it, and at some point in my childhood, the first four blocks in front of the church were turned into a pedestrian zone. At any rate, it meant something if you were on Church Street, and still does. Perhaps the Clearys were the first successful Burlington entrepreneurs I knew, as well as the first bookstore owners.

Hopkins was a bright and colorful place, with some lines from Gerard Manley Hokins painted on the walls. It was an ecumenical bookshop, with a large variety of religious books, and some not explicitly religious books as well. It had a very good children’s section, one that seemed to grow with us. As we graduated from children’s picture books, Hopkins was there with the next level. It helped the selection that the Clearys had two children our own age, and of similar interests. (Full disclosure: my mother also did the bookkeeping for them for many years). As a result, I grew up feeling that bookstores would always hold something new and special—something I might chance upon in the book stalls, or that might be recommended by one of the shopkeepers.

Mr. Gibbs Smith, founder of Gibbs Smith, Publishers (more full disclosure: they are one of Toppan Printing Company’s clients), has made a book called The Art of the Bookstore, which includes a number of bookstores that Gibbs Smith has admired, and painted, over the years. The original Borders, of Ann Arbor, Michigan is in there. As is the flagship Barnes and Noble in New York City. So is Kramerbooks, Washington, D.C., Vroman’s in Pasadena, California, the small Cottage Book Shop in Glen Arbor, Michigan, The Tattered Cover in Denver, Colorado, even Shakespeare & Co. in Paris and El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires (in the splendor of a former opera house, no less). Of bookstores, Smith writes: “All I can say is I can feel a personality in each [book]store that I visit. It’s more than an individual. It’s more than the physical location. It’s almost magical. The store develops a personality.”

Smith’s homage also reminds me of what a delight bookstore names can be. It seems there is some law somewhere that states: when you name a hairdresser, you must use a pun (e.g. The Mane Event, The Cutting Edge). With bookstores, the names seem fitting, as to be expected from lovers of the printed word. For instance: Mrs. Dalloway’s Literary and Garden Arts, in Berkeley, Three Lives and Company, New York City, Page and Palette, Fairhope, Alabama, The Stately Raven Bookstore, in Findlay, Ohio, the Learnéd Owl, Hudson, Ohio.

I am pleased to say that Hopkin’s Bookshop is still in business (www.hopkinsbookshop.com). It is now located in Saint Paul’s Cathedral, three or four blocks from Church Street. The Clearys no longer own it, but they have sold it to an individual who is just as passionate about books as they were. And so a literary vestige of my childhood soldiers on. Independent bookstores, and lately the chains, have been battered. But many survive. And some thrive. It is the passion for books—and the tradition of the ancient profession of bookselling—that convince me A Journey Through Literary America will do well in the marketplace.  TRH

“It was clear that the books owned the shop and not the other way about. Everywhere they had run wild and taken possession of their habitat, breeding and multiplying and clearly lacking any strong hand to keep them down”.

(Agatha Christie, The Clocks – one of the selected quotes on the subject of books in The Art of the Bookstore)

∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫∫

 

Gerard Manley Hopkins

“As kingfishers catch fire, dragonflies dráw flame”

As kingfishers catch fire, dragonflies dráw fláme;

As tumbled over rim in roundy wells

Stones ring; like each tucked string tells, each hung bell’s

Bow swung finds tongue to fling out broad its name;

Each mortal thing does one thing and the same:

Deals out that being indoors each one dwells;

Selves—goes itself; myself it speaks and spells,

Crying Whát I do is me: for that I came.


Í say móre: the just man justices;

Kéeps gráce: thát keeps all his goings graces;

Acts in God’s eye what in God’s eye he is—

Chríst—for Christ plays in ten thousand places,

Lovely in limbs, and lovely in eyes not his

To the Father through the features of men’s faces.

images

Gerard Manley Hopkins

Note: One key to unlocking the above poem is Hopkins’s concept of “inscape”- a unique God-given quality in each creature (sort of like “landscape” for the inner being). Hopkins alluded to it in observing a tree:

“There is one notable dead tree . . . the inscape markedly holding its most simple and beautiful oneness up from the ground through a graceful swerve below (I think) the spring of the branches up to the tops of the timber. I saw the inscape freshly, as if my mind were still growing, though with a companion the eye and the ear are for the most part shut and instress cannot come.”


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